(All of our members are required to begin with the clothing of an average person. )
Required garments for all women in Lord Grey’s Retinue:
- Smock or Shift of bleached white linen
- Hose of wool
- Garters to hold up your hose
- White Linen head wrap or tailed cap or wool looped band and hood
- Laced front kirtle – a short (or long) sleeved laced front kirtle of 100% wool
The above items are absolutely required to start with your first event. Don’t worry! We have lots of loaner clothing to help save the expense and time of putting it all together for your first event with us. Please speak with us early so we have time to plan/gather and possibly make what you need to borrow to attend your first event with us. Lara and Steve can assist you.
The list continues with the other required items for our Women’s kit:
- Over Gown – of 100% wool, a few variations will be offered as options below
- Dining set – Cup, bowl, spoon and knife (required for all members)
- Large wool or natural linen bag to carry your medieval items to the event and hide your modern items while at the event (required for all members)
- A heavy natural linen tick (mattress) to be stuffed with straw
- Wool blanket – see fabric selection for wool standards. If blanket was purchased please cut away or remove any modern stitching or labels.
(Details for non-clothing items can be found under the Standards – Common Kit Items.)
Optional common items you may want:
- A second or third smock/shift
- Additional pairs of hose for varying degrees of weather
- Wool hood (aka open hood with liripipe)
- looped head band of wool
- Purse (of wool or leather)
- A Paternoster (like a rosary, they were very religious in the 15th century)
- Wool cape
- Wool mittens
- Additional shoes – perhaps a pair for bad weather
- Wooden box for your personal medieval belongings
- Tools/instruments for whichever vocation you prefer
Suggested modern items you will likely want to bring:
- A flashlight and lantern
- Bug spray
- Baby wipes
- A giant zip-lock bag to keep your modern items dry within the large wool bag
- A modern sleeping bag (hidden within the large wool bag during the event)
Let us get specific about the clothing items required….
- Smock or Shift of bleached white linen –
- Hose of wool–
They should be made of 100% wool, pre-shrunk/pre-washed in hot water so they are machine washable later. Many of us prefer a thick plain weave wool (like a plain woven 100% wool flannel) which when washed gets very soft and thick. It keeps the toes nice and warm and gives additional padding under the feet (some of us make the sole part of the foot a double layer of wool for strength and padding) . Others like a thin plain woven “Tropical” weight 100% wool – your choice. Just make sure it is 100% wool for accuracy and the fire protection pure wool offers.
- Historic Enterprises – “Stockings, wool or wool blend” (*NOT* the wool blend – be sure to ask for 100% wool)
- Garters to hold up your hose –
- Historic Enterprises – “Garters, buckled“
- Shoes –
- Plantagenet Shoes in England – see their 15th century section
- Medieval Design in Italy – Their “Basic Turn shoes”, “14th cent. shoes” view B, “15th cent. boots” view B and their “Pattens 14th/15th century”
- Sarah Juniper in England – The “15th cen single thong fastening shoes”
- Ana period Shoes in England – even the machine stitched ones are good
- NP Historical Shoes – see the 14th/15th cen page
- CP-Schuhe in Germany – many options and quality levels
- Talbots Premium Medieval Turnshoes from Revival clothing
- Armlann Turn Shoe 99
- Armlann Turn Boot with a pointed toe
- White Linen head wrap or tailed cap –
- Historic Enterprises – “Coif, Turban, 13th-15th c.“
- Wool Hood –
See cutting diagram for style “b.” on page 201 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant by Sarah Thursfield
You may make or buy a wool hood (just make sure any machine stitching is hidden or removed). Here are places that sell them:
- Matuls: “Women’s Hood – 15th type 1“
- Under Gown – A laced front kirtle made of 100% wool with short sleeves and it may or may not have a ruffle at the hem.
- It must be of 100% wool for accuracy and fire safety.
- The bodice should be lined in natural or bleached white linen. Lining the sleeves and skirt is optional.
- The sleeves would be short – between upper and mid-bicep
- You may make a pair of pin-on sleeves if you like, but not of a brocade. Use a plain wool to either match your under gown or of another color wool.
- The hem of the gown would be shorter – about 2″ – 2.5″ above the floor (barefoot)
- You may add a ruffle at the hem if you like – the finished length should be between 5″ to 8″ long. The fullness of the ruffle should not exceed a ratio of 1.5″ gathered into 1″ (…so if your gown’s hem circumfrence is 100″ then your finished ruffle width will be a maximum of 150″.)
- You may machine stitch if you like as long as there is no visible machine stitching. Finish off your hems and necklines with hand stitching please.
- Follow the construction notes for the laced front kirtle over gown below for the rest of the cutting, fitting and sewing details please.
Or, here are options for where you may purchase one:
- Matuls: Woman’s Gown – 15th Century (get the short sleeve version for the under-gown. If you want pin-on sleeves get them of wool and not a brocade)(adding hand stitching would be even more correct – or you can add it yourself)
- Matuls: Woman’s Gown – 15th Century (get the long sleeve version for the over-gown.) (adding hand stitching would be even more correct – or you can add it yourself)
- Women’s Purses –