Men’s Clothing

∗∗∗ All of our members are required to begin with the clothing of a regular working person. No matter whom you wish to portray there are some events and scenarios where all of us need to work and be dressed appropriately to do so (Yes, even our Gentlemen often set aside their finery and portray workers when we need them to.) 

We strongly recommend you purchase one of the following books if you intend to sew your own clothing for use with Lord Grey’s Retinue:

Required garments for all men in Lord Grey’s Retinue:

  1. Shirt of bleached white linen
  2. Braies (underpants) of bleached white linen
  3. Hose of wool
  4. Shoes
  5. Doublet – of wool
  6. Gown or livery – of wool
  7. Belt – of leather
  8. Hat – of wool

The above items are absolutely required to start with your first event. Don’t worry! We have lots of loaner clothing to help save the expense and time of putting it all together for your first event with us. Please speak with us early so we have time to plan/gather and possibly make what you need to borrow to attend your first event with us. 

The list continues with the other required items for our Men’s kit:

  1. Purse – of leather
  2. Dagger
  3. Dining set – Cup, bowl, spoon and knife
  4. Large wool or natural linen bag to carry your items/hide your modern clothing
  5. A heavy natural linen tick (mattress) to be stuffed with straw
  6. Wool blanket(s)
Optional common items you may want:
  1. A second or third shirt
  2. Additional pairs of braies
  3. Cape of wool
  4. Linen pillow
  5. Mittens
  6. additional shoes – perhaps a pair for bad weather
  7. Pattens
  8. Wooden box for your belongings
  9. Tent
  10. Armor/Weapons/Tools/Instruments for whichever vocation you prefer
Suggested modern items you may want to bring:
  1. A flashlight or lantern
  2. Sunblock
  3. Bug spray
  4. A giant zip-lock bag to keep your modern items dry within the large wool bag
  5. A modern sleeping bag (hidden within the large wool bag during the event)

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Let us get specific about the clothing items required….

  •  Men’s Shirt of bleached linen – 
mens_shirt_image_a

From the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant

This is your underwear, it is always made of bleached white linen. It should have long sleeves, under-arm gussets, a scoop or boat neck and be between hip and mid thigh in length. The sleeves need to fit under the fitted sleeves of the doublet worn over it.

There are no drawstrings or gathering anywhere on this garment. There may be slits at the bottom of each side seam if you choose.You can machine sew your shirt but please finish all visible areas (neckline & wrists) by hand.  Many of our members sleep in their shirt.   
*Please consult page 71 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or page 45 of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your shirt or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.      
                    
You may also buy your shirt and alter it as needed (you may need to replace any  visible machine stitching with hand stitching). Here are a few places that sell them:
                                                          

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  • Braies (underpants) of bleached linen – 
braies_image

From the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant

This is your underwear, it is always made of bleached white linen. Honestly, we will not be checking your underwear (though I cannot swear the other men will not say something if they should notice). Just make sure that if you do chose to cheat with modern undies that they be white and remain completely unseen.

*Please consult page 71 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or page 45 of of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your braies or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.

You may also buy your braies. Here are a few places that sell them:

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  •   Hose of wool-
Mens_hose_image

From the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant

We wear the “joined hose” with the full foot and built in codpiece. Must be 100% wool. I personally recommend making the sole of the foot in a double layer of wool for comfort and for darning when wearing rubs through. I also recommend lining the waistline and codpiece areas for stability – we do not want stretch there. The seams up the back of the legs may run straight up to the waist line or come to a point at mid-tush. Either is fine however the straight up to the waistline is easier to make. Be careful to not over-fit these. The wearer needs to be able to move and sit comfortably. I won’t lie, these are tricky to fit and make. The two hardest areas to fit are the foot and the tush and codpiece area. A second person is required for the fitting and marking – they will by necessity have to get very close to the wearer’s private areas. This can prove most ummm…awkward.

*Please consult pages 108-113 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or pages 83-85 of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your hose or ask Lara if she has a pattern that will fit you. The Tudor Tailor makes a Men’s hose pattern (in two size groups) which is nearly identical to what we need – only the codpiece needs to be altered to become less prominent for use in our time.

You may also buy your hose. Here are a few places that sell them:

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  • Doublet – of wool
doublet_image

From the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant

This is (technically) also considered your underwear but it was common for a man to do work in his doublet and hose alone. When not physically working, you would wear your gown or a livery garment over it.

It is made of wool and may be lined in either wool or linen. No silks or brocades and no colored linen please. We do not wear the Italian style with the open front and the Italian style sleeve is not quite yet common in our area. Your sleeves may have the ball shoulders like the image on the right or be plain. Plain sleeves would usually have only a slight slit opening at the wrist. The doublets with the ball shoulders may be open at  the seam in part or most of the arm. Both would close at the wrist with either a lacing point or a fabric ball button.

*Please consult pages 94-102 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or pages 110-111 and 115-117 of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your doublet or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.

You may also buy your doublet. Here are a few places that sell them:

**** You will need to tie your hose and doublet with “points”. These are lengths of cord (usually between 18″- 24″ long) with metal tips on each end. Here are a few sources:

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  • Gown or livery – of wool

Men's GownsYou would not feel fully dressed without your gown. It is worn over your doublet with a belt which would hold your purse and dagger. It is made of wool and may be made unlined or lined in wool, natural or bleached linen or fur. The fur may simply trim the hem, collar and cuffs (See the standards drop down menu for the fur selection page). No brocades or silks please.

It has a round neckline at the front and comes to a “V” at the back neckline. Sleeves are full and long  and may or may not have a slit down the front. It may be more casual (like the gold and blue gowns modeled above) and be cut loose which allows it to be pulled over the head or it may be cut to fit with padded and structured pleats which would require a center front opening of hooks and eyes. The length can be as short as the upper thigh or as long as floor length. As a general rule the shorter they are the younger the wearer. The floor length gowns are symbolic of age and wealth.

*Please consult pages 150-157 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or pages 175 – 177 of of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your gown or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.

You may also buy your gown. Here are a few places that sell them:

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  • Shoes –
Men’s shoes should have a pointed toe and be made of leather. The medieval “Turn-shoe” is acceptable but by our time period the “turn welt” construction is most accurate … and of course, more labor intensive and expensive.
Many of our members have more then one pair – a favorite pair and a cheaper pair to be worn in the poor weather. Take good care of your shoes, moisture will allow mold to build up and possibly shrink and harden the leather. We are all so unhappy when we find that we forgot to put our shoes away nicely and discover that they have shrunk and become moldy and hard.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Before you make your purchase please speak to Lara and Steve to confirm that what you have chosen is correct for use within Lord Grey’s retinue:                                                              
The best:
Good:
Acceptable:

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  • Belt – of leather

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*Please consult page 71 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or page 45 of of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your braies or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.

You may also buy your belt. Here are a few places that sell them:

  • Medieval design offers
  • Historic Enterprises offers

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Men’s pouch or Purse-

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You may also buy your pouch or purse. Here are a few places that sell them:

 

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  • Hat – of wool

All men have hats. You may take it off at times but would most often wear one. There are several variations available. The most popular styles for every day soldiers and men are wool cloth hats. The chaperone is usually for when you are dressing to impress – but you may be that sort of person on an everyday basis.

*Please consult pages 189 – 196 of The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant  by Sarah Thursfield  or pages 194 – 197 of of the 2nd edition for instructions on how to make your own hat or ask Lara for a pattern to borrow.

You may also buy your hat. Here are a few places that sell them:

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